Blinker Switch and Staying in Park

Two issues that we’ve had with the car since we’ve had it has been the blinker return switch not working on right had turns and a car that would slip from park into reverse every once in a while.  So, it was time to get into the car and work on these issues a bit.  This and the next several posts recount our work.  The procedure here on our Comet works the same as it would on a Falcon or Mustang and is very similar to any early to mid 60s Ford.

So, first things first:  turn the horn ring counter clockwise and lift out:

Once it’s removed, you’ll see the slot the horn ring fit into as well as a nut holding the steering wheel on:

You will see a horn contact ring at about the 8 o’clock position.  Remove it carefully, it consists of a rubber covered wire and an internal spring:

You’ll notice the steering wheel nut is already removed in the picture.  That is because you can do these in either order.  Our next post will discuss how to do that.


Quick Work on the F100

I know I said I’d post some useful sites but instead I thought I’d get back to sharing what we’re up to. A couple weeks back we noticed the vent hose along the filler neck hose was leaking. Replacing it proved difficult. I gave Micah the project. The inner clamp was facing the wrong way to get to it. It was clear the hose had been installed and then the bed was lowered on back at the factory. Micah noticed, though, that the neck was quite long, so he ripped off the hose and put the new one right up against the old clamp and it worked–not ideal, I suppose, but it worked. Here’s a shot of the finished project:

Staying in Touch

In my next post, I’ll share some info on useful websites for anyone interested in cars (esp, but not limited to, classic cars, muscle cars, and restoration and repair). For now, here’s an email to reach me if need be (since I’ve now dropped Facebook): froliverherbel [at] cableone [dot] net

For sure, use this email for anything not connected to things posted here, as this blog is solely about Herbel Garage items and not politics (except as it touches on cars perhaps) nor religion nor other hobbies outside of cars.

Replacing the Transmission Modulator

As I pointed out in the last post, a small part of our project included installing a vacuum “tree”:

You’ll notice all the port holes, more than I need, but it looks nice against the firewall.  Once we had everything together, we had a small vacuum leak between the adaptor and the manifold and had to take it apart and put another gasket in there and tighten it down.  During this process, we had checked vacuum lines and that’s when Micah and I noticed transmission fluid was coming up one of the hoses from the transmission.  Our transmission is a C4, and as many automatic transmissions, it has a modulator in order to guide the shifting.  A good overview of how a modulator works may be found here:

You’ll notice our modulator had a bracket that fit around a central knob on the end and two hoses going to it.

This was not an easy modulator to acquire.  This style was not carried in any parts stores in town nor in their warehouses! Thankfully, Mac’s Auto carries it.  This style was only available in late ’70s Broncos with the C4.  So, now I know where the previous owner got the C4 that he dropped in!  That may have also been where he got the inline 200 that replaced the 170 that had been in there.  So the hot rodding that the previous owner performed by swapping out the 2 speed auto and 170 for the 3 speed C4 and 200 have been continued and taken to a new level by us.

Hopping Up the Top End, Part 4

Well, this is what the final result looks like:

I may still have the bracket bent slightly where the kickdown cable comes through.  It’s tough to see in the picture but the bend on the cable is too sharp.  Otherwise, I think we generally have it.  We did have a flat spot when first driving the car.  The air/fuel ratio was good so we had the boosters opened slightly and that helped.  There’s still a minor hesitation when the car is first being driven but after a block it disappears.  I’m debating whether to tweak the carb some more but want to drive it a bit this spring before deciding. By the way, there was no problem at all with hood clearance.  I have a good inch, maybe two, to spare.

One thing that you will notice if you look on the firewall is a billet aluminum vacuum tree.  I got that off ebay and it looks nice back there.  Should I ever decide to go to a power break set up, I can tap into that.  If I decide not to, no loss.  In my next post, I’ll highlight another repair we ran into along the way!

Hopping Up the Top End, Part 3

In my last post, I described the challenge we ran into once we mounted the carburetor:  how to route the throttle and kickdown cables over the valve cover in such a way they could pull the throttle.  We knew we’d need a bracket that was up a little bit.  So, our bracket ended up looking something like this:

Jim custom made this bracket from stainless steel. It looks great!  We routed the  cables through it like so:

And then we bolted it down.  Now, if you look at the next picture, you’ll see a problem we ran into when first using this bracket:

There was no way it would pull the linkage far enough to open the throttle all the way.  If you look at the connector I’m holding, you’ll also see it’s rather long.  That’s the stock length from Lokar. Go back up to the picture with the cables in the bracket, though, and you’ll notice we shortened it.  By doing that, we were just able to pull the throttle open to WOT.   Yay!

Running the cables is a real challenge/problem to be solved when using the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 carburetor as part of a small (Ford) inline six build. I have seen a couple other approaches  out there online but both of those required welding a jig-saw puzzle of stuff onto the valve cover.  This bracket took some time to think through and mock up but this is a much cleaner look than anything else I’ve seen thus far.

Hopping Up the Top End, Part 2

Well, as we saw in the last post, with some work, we were able to prep that intake on the cylinder head and install the adaptor.  We then mounted the carburetor and installed the high ratio rockers and put on the valve cover.  Once we test ran the engine, however,we found that the higher ratio rockers hit the baffles on the inside of the valve cover.  I didn’t take pictures of the baffles or their removal, but we cut them out with the dremel. It took a while.  Once that was done, we then had to run the lokar cable set up over the valve cover to the carb linkage.  Here’s a picture of where the Lokar bracket is manufactured to mount:

It would mount by way of the carb stud that mounts the carb to the adaptor.  The problem is that it then sits too low.  The throttle and kickdown cables can’t loop over the valve cover and then turn to connect to the carb linkage.  The carburetor also cannot be turned the other way.  Based on the butterflies on the carb, it would make sense to turn the carburator around, but carburetor bowl and the valve cover cannot occupy the same physical space, at least not according to the laws of physics that govern our universe,  so this is the only way to mount the carburetor, leaving the conundrum of how to get the cables and linkage connected.  There are some ingenious methods you find online.  As this series continues, I’ll show you what we ultimately decided on.